Wednesday, 8 December 2010

Trafalgar Square


Is decked out with an enormous Christmas tree and Menorah for the holidays.

Carol singers are out every evening from 5 – 9 pm…..belting out the classics.

We went last night.

Noticed that the sound of applause from the crowd is quite muted due to the thick gloves of the listeners.

And the crowd changes every 6 or so songs because it was too chilly for standing still.

But the music is lovely!




Changing of the Guard


Is a very popular tourist attraction.


During the winter months it only takes place every other day. The website recommends that visitors arrive by 11.15 am to get the best out of the whole ceremony which lasts from 11:30 to Noon.

So, on a very cold Tuesday.

In December.

At 10 am.

Wouldn’t you think that I would be directly in front of the gate with just a few other tourists?

Here is the crowd.



We waited and waited and waited…

then the horses clopped clopped down the street and the action started.

The new guards marched in and the ceremony took place.


Later the band marched in wearing fabulous weather-appropriate hats!


When they played “What a Wonderful World”, the group around me started singing softly.

In a variety of different accents.

Must be a universal tune.







Imperial War Museum

In front of the Imperial War Museum.

A view inside from the second floor.


Armored combat vehicle.

Tanks, uniforms, weaponry, dates, maps ---- you will find all of these in abundance at the Imperial War Museum.

I just can’t muster up much interest.

But I do find the personal stories compelling and managed to spend half a day at this museum, primarily at two exhibits.


The Holocaust Exhibit uses historical material to tell the story of the Nazis' persecution of the Jews and other groups before and during the Second World War.

The filmed testimony of eighteen survivors of the Holocaust brings a haunting perspective -- their resilience and ability to survive unimaginable circumstances – told directly and matter-of-factly to the camera.
 

The Children's War looks at the home front in Britain through the eyes of children.

Topics include evacuation, air raids, rationing and the blackout, and are illustrated through letters, diaries, and photographs.

The 1940s House is at the centerpiece, a look at everyday life. 

Popular slogans of the time.





Tuesday, 7 December 2010

A Visit to Bath

We are definitely outside the city limits.
A view from the train window on the way from London to Bath.

Dave, our chatty proprietor at the Lamp Post Villa, told us that the city of Bath is on the Unesco World Heritage List.
Only two cities are World Heritage sites. While parts of other cities have the status, in just two cases does the designation apply to the whole place. One of them is Venice. The other is Bath.
I can see why.

This ancient spa town is so much more than a source of hot, healing waters.

On a walking tour of Bath, we saw the Royal Crescent.


Even the basement apartments are spectacular.


It seemed tacky to knock on the door and ask to check out the interior since most of the Royal Crescent is divided into individual flats for residents.

Luckily there is a hotel in the center and we were able to walk through the lobby and grounds. 

One of the many rooms on the ground floor of the hotel...(upstairs are the guest rooms starting at 460 pounds per night). Our guide commented that she has only ever had ONE Crescent Hotel Guest take her walking tour!


Nearby (a couple of blocks away) is The Circus, 3 buildings forming a circle.

Whereas, the inhabitants of the Royal Crescent look out on an expansive view of nature, the Circus dwellers look out and see the exact same façade as the one that they are living in. A circular park in the middle holds a sealed off well (where servants gathered to draw water).



Traditional columns of The Circus: Corinthian, Ionic, and Doric. 



On the other side of town is the Pulteney Bridge with a cascading waterfall.


And the Bath Abbey.


And let's not forget what the city is know for...the Roman Baths.


Steamy hot mineral water does not photograph well.


Picture yourself, ages ago, a wealthy resident of the Royal Crescent. You have just spent the entire day relaxing in the healing waters and now you are all wrapped up and transported in a sedan chair by virile servants. Up the hill to your home. The way is lit by torch bearers and you are carried all the way upstairs and into your room (hence the wide doors of the time, needed the space to get the chair through) and later the torch is 'snuffed' out by this iron piece on the porch. Sounds like a good life!


Today, guests can take a dip in a rooftop thermal pool in town but you have to get there and back on your own two feet.

This time of year is actually known more for the Bath Christmas Market - 129 traditional wooden chalets offering unique gifts, decorations and food items.

And this is where you can find the half a million visitors!


During our stay, we had freezing fog.

Top of the train station.

Which made it easy to identify the locals!

A mail carrier in shorts in 32 degree weather!




Lovin’ Mondays


I have never employed a housekeeper (is that the correct term?).

The closest I came was nearly twenty years of business travel that required flying from city to city with hotel stays that provided mints on the pillow.

Which is also housekeeping but no one actually came to my house.

With chocolate.

Or a vacuum.

Therefore I am not going to count those experiences.

Here in London, at our full-service flat, a housekeeper comes every Monday.

I love Mondays!

We got home from our trip to Bath last night and were greeted by this:


It has happened 7 times.

The floors are clean too and all the surfaces are wiped down.

I have been spoiled on this adventure.

In many ways.



Saturday, 4 December 2010

Sunday Roast


There are signs everywhere advertising for Sunday Roast. This is not something you see in the States.

Regardless, we were willing to toss aside our love of Sunday Brunch in favor of Sunday Roast.

Talked about it for weeks.

Googled the ‘best places in London’ for this treat.

 Referred to TimeOut London for advice.

Then decided to trust our instincts.

We go to Borough Market every week to eat our weight in cheese (I mean, shop there for fresh organic produce and a few dairy items like Stilton, Gloucester, and Cheshire).

Borough Market is known for offering the very best by local artisans.

There is a restaurant overlooking the market called ROAST, so really there never was any question where we would go.

Booked the earliest reservation, 11:30 am on Sunday.

Arrived just as they were unlocking the gate in front of the elevator and putting out the menu sign (can you say ‘overeager’).

Ahhhh, crisp white linens. The sound of piano music and family gatherings all around us.

And the food…oh my, the food.

Blood Mary
Pressed Game (don’t ask) with cranberry chutney.
Smoked trout with capers and red onion.
Slow roast Wicks Manor pork belly with Bramley applesauce.
Roast Welsh Black beef with Yorkshire pudding, horseradish and English mustard.

We planned to go to the British Museum afterwards but instead went home and took a nap (did I forget to mention the sides were roast potatoes, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts).

Turns out Sunday Roast is no comparison to Sunday Brunch.

But it does slow you down a bit especially when dessert is spiced cranberry, apple, and almond crumble with a full pitcher of cream!



Friday, 3 December 2010

Street Performers



Since the cold weather hit and we are all walking around in boots and scarves and coats and hoods and all the paraphernalia that comes with winter, the street performers have all but disappeared.

Prior to the cold snap, these were the folks along the Thames River Path.


My favorite – so British, so proper.


This band kept the tunnel rocking.


For a donation, this creature rode his bike.


Face paint so thick it kept their expressions firmly in place.